Kenya: the original safari
The Masai Mara, elephants under Kilimanjaro and the word safari itself. Kenya invented the idea, and in the migration months it still delivers the biggest wildlife spectacle on earth.
Why Kenya
Kenya is where the safari began, and it still has the images everyone carries in their head: a lion on a termite mound in the Mara, elephants crossing a dusty plain with Kilimanjaro behind them, a hot-air balloon over the grasslands at dawn. The wildlife density in the Masai Mara during the migration months is as high as anywhere in Africa, and the predator viewing, lion and cheetah especially, is the best in East Africa.
It is also varied. Amboseli is open and dusty with the mountain for a backdrop; Samburu in the north is drier and has species you will not see further south, such as Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe and gerenuk; Laikipia's conservancies are where Kenya's conservation story is most alive, with rhino sanctuaries and community-owned land. And Nairobi has direct flights from more cities than any other safari capital.
The honest trade-offs are two. Park fees have risen sharply, with the Mara now US$200 a day per person in high season, and the Mara reserve itself gets crowded at the river crossings. The answer to both is the private conservancies on the Mara's borders: fewer vehicles, night drives, walking, and your fees going to the Maasai landowners.
Where to go
Masai Mara
Kenya's share of the Serengeti ecosystem. From roughly July to October the migration herds are here, and the Mara River crossings are the most dramatic wildlife event you can plan a trip around. Outside those months the resident game is still exceptional, and the big cats stay all year.
Masai Mara guide
Amboseli
Famous for big-tusked elephants and the clearest views of Kilimanjaro, which sits just over the Tanzanian border. The park is small and the mountain is often cloaked by mid-morning, so the early starts matter. Four hours from Nairobi by road, or a short flight.
Samburu & Laikipia
Samburu's Ewaso Nyiro river draws elephant, leopard and the 'Samburu special five'. Laikipia's conservancies, such as Lewa and Ol Pejeta, are the heart of Kenya's rhino conservation and offer walking, riding and camel safaris. Quieter and more exclusive than the Mara.
Diani & the Indian Ocean
Kenya's beaches are a natural end to a safari. Diani, south of Mombasa, has white sand, reefs and a short flight from the Mara. Lamu, further north, is an old Swahili town with no cars and a slower pace.
When to go
- July to October: dry season and migration season. The herds are in the Mara, crossings happen from late July into September, and game viewing is at its best across the country. Also the busiest and most expensive time; book a year ahead for the Mara.
- January to February: a short dry season, hot and clear, with excellent predator viewing and far fewer visitors. Good for Amboseli and Samburu.
- March to May (long rains): wet, green and quiet. Some camps close in April and May; others drop their rates by a third or more. The Mara's resident game is still there and the landscape is at its most beautiful.
- November to December (short rains): brief afternoon showers, green bush, newborn animals and good birding. A good shoulder season.
Getting there and around
Fly into Nairobi (Jomo Kenyatta), which has direct flights from London, Amsterdam, Paris, the Gulf hubs and New York. From Nairobi's second airport, Wilson, scheduled light aircraft fly to airstrips in the Mara, Amboseli, Samburu and Laikipia, usually in under an hour. This is how most safaris are done, and the flights are part of any package.
Driving is possible and cheaper. Nairobi to the Mara is five to six hours on a mix of tarmac and rough road; a driver-guide in a 4x4 is the usual arrangement and doubles as your guide in the park. Self-driving is not common and not recommended for first visits.
Where to stay
- Tented camps in the conservancies: the best way to see the Mara. Camps on Mara North, Olare Motorogi, Naboisho and the other conservancies limit vehicle numbers and allow night drives and walks. Mid-range to very expensive.
- Lodges and camps inside the reserve: closest to the river crossings, with larger lodges and more vehicles at sightings. Good value options exist.
- Amboseli and Samburu lodges: a mix of classic larger lodges and small camps, several with views of the mountain or the river.
- Laikipia ranches: private houses and small lodges on working conservancies, often with rhino, walking and family-friendly set-ups.
Practicalities
Entry. Kenya replaced visas with an electronic travel authorisation (eTA) for most nationalities, applied for online before travel. It costs about US$50 and is valid for 90 days from issue. Apply at least a few days ahead through the official eCitizen portal, and only there. Passports need six months' validity.
Park fees. These are significant and are usually included in a package but worth understanding. The Masai Mara charges non-resident adults US$200 a day in the high season (July to December) and US$100 in the low season; Amboseli is US$90. Conservancy fees are separate and go to the local landowners.
Malaria. Present in all the safari areas and the coast. Prophylaxis is recommended; discuss it with a travel clinic. Nairobi itself, at altitude, is low risk.
Yellow fever. A certificate is required if you arrive from a yellow-fever country, and the vaccine is recommended for the safari areas. If you continue to Tanzania or South Africa afterwards, you will be asked for it.
Money. Lodges and parks price in US dollars; carry some small notes for tips. Kenya runs on M-Pesa mobile money, and cards work in cities and lodges.
Electricity. 240V, British three-pin (Type G) plugs.
Book this trip
The Mara in migration season needs booking far in advance, and a specialist who knows which conservancy suits which month. Our partner links are being finalised.
Checked October 2026. Entry rules, fees and seasons change; confirm with official sources before you book.
