Zambia: the walking safari and the river

Why Zambia

Zambia's great contribution to safari is walking. The guided walking safari was pioneered in the Luangwa Valley in the 1950s, and the guides here are still among the best trained in Africa. Spend a morning on foot with an armed scout and a guide reading tracks, and the bush changes: you notice the dung beetles and the alarm calls, and when you come across an elephant at a hundred metres you understand why people come back.

The parks are big, wild and lightly visited. South Luangwa has one of the highest leopard densities on the continent and was the first park to run regular night drives. The Lower Zambezi lets you canoe past hippos and elephants along the river with Zimbabwe's Mana Pools on the far bank. Kafue, the size of Wales, is barely visited. And Livingstone sits on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, with the quieter view and the Devil's Pool.

The trade-offs: distances are long, the roads outside the parks are poor, and many of the best bush camps are seasonal and close in the rains. It is not a first-safari country. It is a second or third one, when you want depth more than variety.

Where to go

When to go

• June to October (dry season): the time to go. The bush thins, the rivers shrink and the game concentrates. Bush camps are open, walking is at its best. October is very hot but produces the most intense wildlife viewing around the last water.
• November to April (emerald season): the rains arrive, many bush camps close and roads flood. The camps that stay open offer boat safaris on the flooded lagoons, extraordinary birding and low rates. Victoria Falls is at full flow from February to May.
• May: the valley is green, the camps are reopening and the prices are still low.

Getting there and around

Fly into Lusaka via Johannesburg, Nairobi, Addis Ababa or Dubai, then a one-hour flight to Mfuwe for South Luangwa or Jeki and Royal airstrips for the Lower Zambezi. For Victoria Falls, fly directly into Livingstone from Johannesburg. Light aircraft link the parks; driving between them is long and rough and not recommended for most visitors.

Where to stay

• Bush camps: small, seasonal camps of four to eight rooms, often reached on foot from a base lodge. The classic Zambian experience and surprisingly good value for what you get.
• Lodges near Mfuwe: larger permanent lodges on the river at the park gate, open year-round, with a broader range of prices.
• Lower Zambezi camps: riverside camps inside and alongside the park, all-inclusive with canoeing and boating.
• Livingstone: hotels and lodges in town and on the river above the Falls.

Practicalities

Visas. Zambia waived visas for a long list of nationalities in 2022, including the United Kingdom, the United States, European Union countries, Canada and Australia, for tourist stays of up to 90 days. If you plan to cross to the Zimbabwean side of the Falls, the KAZA UniVisa (about US$50) covers both countries plus day trips into Botswana, where available. Confirm current rules before travel.

Malaria. Present throughout the safari areas all year, with the highest risk in the rains. Prophylaxis is strongly recommended.

Money. Camps and activities price in US dollars; the kwacha is used for small purchases. Cards work in Lusaka and Livingstone; carry cash in the parks.

Health. Camps are remote. Medical evacuation insurance is essential.

Electricity. 230V, British three-pin (Type G) plugs. Camps run on solar and generators.